Written by Ivy
Jan 21 2023
Southeast Asia, eastern Australia, and Oceania are home to the stunning Asparagaceae family member known as the Cordyline Red Sister.
There are numerous varieties of this plant with leaves that are maroon, pink, burgundy, and green that, in ideal circumstances, grow to a height of 4-6 feet. The leaves measure 4-6 inches in width and 12-30 inches in length.
The Ti plant, also referred to as the Cordyline Red Sister Plant, produces leathery, spear-shaped leaves in a range of colors. The evergreen shrub's leaves can be any color, including green, red, yellow, white, purple, or purplish-red. Early in the summer, some cordyline plant varieties produce white, pink, or lavender flowers with berries.
Both outdoor and indoor cordyline varieties are hardy. Although flowering is more likely in outdoor varieties, cordylines can also occasionally produce flowers when grown indoors. The cordyline plant is indigenous to Hawaii, other Pacific islands, eastern Australia, and southeast Asia.
The dracaena family member cordyline is a tropical plant, and it prefers climates with average daily temperatures above 55°F. A very sunny location is ideal for a cordyline plant indoor houseplant.
There are numerous Ti plant varieties among the Cordyline plants, some with maroon and green leaves, some with hot pink tips, and some with variegated leaves.
Particularly colorful foliage with burgundy to pinkish leaves can be found on the Red Sister Ti plant.
The leaves are around 12" to 30" inches long and 4" to 6" inches wide.
In the best circumstances, the red sister plants can reach heights of 4 to 6 feet.
When the Red Sister is allowed to grow in its natural habitat, it will occasionally produce tiny pink, purple, or white flowers.
Late spring to early summer is when this plant blooms.
These beautiful flowers grow in clusters and are 0.5" inches wide.
Indoor plants don't bloom, though.
Occasionally, it will also produce a fruit that resembles red berries.
The Cordyline fruticosa Plant does well in bright light as a houseplant.
The foliage will appear more vibrant as it receives more light.
The best exposure is to the south or east, though it can also tolerate some shade.
It does well when planted outdoors in full sun, but it needs protection from the wind.
In order to protect the plant's leaves from burning if the sun is too strong, it is best to place it in a small area of partial shade.
This plant's USDA hardiness ranges from zones 9 to 12.
The Ti Plant prefers a well-draining, rich potting mix but can tolerate poor and dry soil conditions.
To make sure the plant receives the right nutrients for growth, you should repot it every three to four years and change the soil's top layer every year.
Ensure that the new plant's pot is slightly larger than the old one.
Sometimes upkeep is needed for this plant.
Don't forget to humidify the plant for glossier, more vibrant foliage.
As it may encourage leaf diseases, avoid overhead watering.
In cold weather, Cordyline Red Sister needs to be protected.
Wait until the spring season arrives to prune back the stems that were harmed by the cold.
Seeds and stem cuttings are used to propagate this plant.
When using seeds, make sure to soak them in warm water for approximately ten minutes prior to planting.
In between one and three months, seeds will germination.
When the seedlings are big enough to handle, plant them in individual pots.
Water them regularly, and when they are about 4" inches tall, transplant them in their permanent position.
When using tip or stem cuttings:
Slice up a sturdy cane into pieces that are between one and two inches long. Put these cuttings in containers with new, drained soil. The cuttings should be buried in the ground with the exposed side facing up.
Place the pots in a warm area of your home with some shade, and mist the soil in the pots several times each day.
Within 4-6 weeks, the emergence of new roots and shoots will begin. As long as the pots are the right size, you can either move the plants into bigger containers or keep growing them in the original ones.
Since the roots and stems are simply divided into two or more sections, this technique is much simpler than stem cutting. Each new section should be planted in pots of drained soil.
It's not too difficult to carry out this propagation practice. A healthy branch that is growing from the plant can be wounded to encourage the growth of roots.
Make a circular cut in the bark just below a node around the stem, and then make another one similar to the first one a few inches lower.
Then, make a straight cut to separate the bark, and join the two wounds. In order to remove the inner, slick bark from the stem, you should have a circular area of the stem that is bare; failing to do so will stop the wound from healing.
The exposed area should be covered with a handful of wet moss or cocoa powder, which should then be wrapped in a clear plastic sheet and tied off at the ends to the stem. You can use this to determine when rooting begins.
Once the new roots have begun to take hold, trim the stem below them, take off the plastic cap, and plant in a fresh container.
In particular, mealy bugs, scales, and spider mites should be kept an eye out for on the plant.
Spray organic Neem oil or insecticidal soap on the lower and upper leaf surfaces to get rid of pests.
Although it can be harmed by mites, mealybugs, fungus gnats, scale, and thrips, it is a tough plant. Leaf loss, stains, and/or stunted growth are the typical signs of pest infestations.
These can be dealt with using insecticidal soap or neem oil, and then the plant can be sprayed with water to remove any remaining eggs.
Chemicals, leaf spot, color loss, root/stem rot, and bacterial infections are a few problems that can affect the plant.
Leaf tip burn from tap water fluoride is a frequent occurrence that can result in necrosis. Another issue that can be avoided by watering the plant's base and avoiding getting water on the foliage is leaf spot.
Leaf fading is another frequent issue. Insufficient lighting and overfertilization are frequent contributors to this. For the foliage of this plant to remain vibrant and improve in color, bright light is required.
It will be possible to revive drab foliage by reducing fertilizer application and dosage.
If a plant becomes infected with bacteria, there isn't much that can be done for it other than tossing it out right away. Black roots, slimy, wet leaves, or spots that are tan, purple, or reddish-brown on leaves or stems are all signs of bacterial infection.
Brown leaves can result from a variety of problems, including overwatering, excessive sun exposure, or excessively warm temperatures.
First, make sure you are adhering to the suggested watering schedule and that the planting medium is draining well before you start troubleshooting each potential problem.
The plant needs to be moved out of direct sunlight as the next course of action. Last but not least, make sure the temperature doesn't go above 95 degrees Fahrenheit.
The plant is being burned by direct sunlight if its leaves are yellow. Change the plant's location to one that receives lots of indirect light.
The lower leaves of the plant may occasionally start to dry out and fall off if it isn't given enough water. If the weather is dry or arid, change the watering schedule and think about misting the plant frequently.
There are numerous varieties of the cordyline plant, most of which have vibrant leaves. Your cordyline plants may reach a height of almost a foot, depending on where you intend to place them.
A cordyline can grow both inside and outside in the warmest areas. Your cordyline should only be an indoor houseplant if you don't live in a warm, tropical area. Luckily, these plants are fairly easy to grow indoors and add both color and interest to your houseplant collection.