Written by Ivy
Jan 30 2023
It's very simple to grow new Peperomia plants. Cuttings of the stem, leaf, or tip are used to grow it.
The cutting should be dipped in a high-quality rooting powder at the cutting ends, and the rooting medium should be very light and airy.
A new plant can be quickly produced with easy, regular care.
Now that that's settled, let's move on to the next post about plant propagation. In this post, I build on the peperomia care advice I provided a few weeks ago and discuss peperomia propagation. Because it's easy to care for and easy to propagate. That's what's up.
Peperomia plants should always be planted in a well-draining soil because they generally dislike being overwatered and have pretty shallow root systems. It's worked well for me to simply add perlite, coco coir, or fine moss to regular houseplant soil, which is what I currently use.
When establishing peperomia cuttings in soil, use the same type of mixture. The best seasons for propagation are spring and summer, as with most plants. But you can do it in the fall. This fall, I'm going to make an effort to maintain my tiny babies.
Likewise, bear in mind that variegated peperomia plants (such as the baby rubber plant) shouldn't be propagated from leaf cuttings. In soil or water, only stem cuttings. It may lose all of its beautiful color variegation when propagated from a leaf cutting.
Peperomia can first be propagated easily in water. Rooting pothos cuttings in water is a process that is very similar to this one. You simply take a stalk—not just a leaf—and cut it off, then place it in a cup of water. After roughly 6 weeks, mine started to form tiny, white, nearly translucent roots.
Once you notice the first indications of the tiny white roots, give it a few more weeks. After that, repot it and continue to take care of Peperomia Obtusifolia as you would any other new plant.
Keep it humid and moist, but with enough airflow so that it doesn't become moldy. I placed mine in a cup with drainage holes in a bathroom window. Eventually, it will start to produce new growth.
Using soil is another method of peperomia propagation. I'm currently using this technique to grow some tiny ripple peppers. Using a leaf cutting or a tip/stem cutting are the two methods for using cuttings to start new peperomia plants. In addition, I employ the tip/stem approach.
It's recommended to cut a stem with a few leaves on it when propagating a peperomia plant from a stem cutting. I haven't always done this, though, and the cutting is still successful. The cuttings must be taken from healthy plants, which is the most crucial thing to keep in mind.
Remove the lower leaves, then dip the stem in a powdered rooting hormone. After that, carefully plant the seed in potting soil with good drainage. Once the cutting has been planted, you can use a large plastic bag or another clear plastic item, like a plastic bottle cut in half, to create the smallest greenhouse known to man.
Whatever enclosure you choose, adding holes will help with air flow. But you should continue giving the plant a few days' worth of fresh air. If you see mold growing, that might be a sign to let it breathe.
This is my official advice, but because I'm lazy, I just leave my tiny rooting babies in a humid room with a window (the bathroom) and keep the majority of them planted in an old plastic salad greens container. This enables me to reuse something that would otherwise be difficult to throw away and keeps some humidity inside.
You'll see new plants start to sprout after a few weeks (sometimes longer). once they are large enough to travel, transplant them into various pots. As they grow into tiny, adorable little beings, keep on nursing!
Even peperomia plants can be multiplied using leaf cuttings (just make sure to use this technique only for solid, non-variegated varieties). The procedure is the same as stem cutting propagation; the only difference is that you only need to remove leaves with small stems attached and plant those.
Additionally, when propagating from leaf cuttings, rooting hormone can be used. Though it takes time, the procedure is essentially the same.
Place them in a well-lit area with little to no direct sunlight. Currently, mine are receiving an hour of direct morning sun from an east-facing windowsill.
Since I live in Tucson, where the sun will be getting stronger and the days hotter as we get closer to summer, I'll move them to my utility room if they aren't well-rooted enough to plant in a month.
Verify the water level to make sure the bottom nodes are submerged. I perform this every two to three days because I reside in a warm, sunny climate. It could be less frequently necessary.
Change it entirely if the water starts to look strange. To stop bacteria from growing in the water, I do this every few weeks.
In a week or two, you'll start to notice roots growing. The roots will expand more quickly in the warmer months. In five to seven weeks, I'll plant mine, which I began rooting at the end of March.
The fact that a baby rubber plant is safe for pets has nothing to do with pruning or growing more of them. I wanted to let you know that peperomias are thought to be non-toxic because I know many of you have pets like me (I have two kitties).
You should only have the bottom one or two nodes submerged. Do not immerse the stems in water up to their full depth.
To ensure that the bottom few nodes are submerged, frequently check the water level. Every few weeks, completely replace the water to prevent the growth of bacteria.
Depending on the stem's length, each cutting needs between 3 and 7 leaves. Nothing should be submerged in the water, including any leaves.
Keep your cuttings away from any strong direct sunlight. They'll burn.
When these cuttings have developed enough roots, I'll write about planting them and make a video about it. I'll then demonstrate to you how the mother plant is recovering from the pruning at that time. You can see the mix I use and how I repot Peperomia plants in this photo.
To prepare the small pot for the cuttings, fill it with moist soil. Clean your knife/shears and take your cuttings:
Stem cuttings: A stem with three or more leaves should be chosen, and it should be cut just below the lowest leaf. There will only be two leaves at the top after you remove the lower leaves. In the places where the removed leaves once stood, the roots will sprout from the joints.
Leaf cuttings: Remove the leaf at the point where the petiole (the leaf joint) meets the stem.