How to grow container vegetable gardening

Container vegetable gardeners are committed to their craft for many reasons: some people don't have arable land; others just like to include their gardening adventures in ceramic bowls, clay pots and hanging baskets. Gardeners who move frequently are like bringing their garden to their new home. Some people like the convenience of container gardening. For example, the number of weeding and bending is small, and the plants in the container are generally less susceptible to pests and diseases.

The biggest advantage of container vegetable gardening

Except for most window frames, it is their mobility. If your container tomatoes are poor in the back corner of your yard, you can move them to brighter sunlight. If your morning glory wilts in the strong afternoon sun, you are free to re-position them so that they can get a respite in the local shade.
You can also use mobility to rotate the container frequently so that each side of the potted plant can get the same sunlight for the same growth. You can even mix and match container factories to provide new arrangements when you prefer. For example, you can try a pot of dwarf sunflowers, some brilliant geraniums, or a dramatic hibiscus plant as a porch display.

Container choices to consider

Stone urns, half whiskey barrels, sinks, and containers made of concrete, clay, clay or lightweight synthetic materials. Some homeowners have created small water gardens in old claw-foot bathtubs, or used hollowed out logs to create a miniature rural landscape. In fact, your choices are only limited by imagination.
When choosing containers, you want to make sure they are the right size for the plants you want to grow. Slow-growing plants, such as conifers, evergreens, cacti and succulents, will usually be happy in a container the size of the plant. You should grow more perennials, annuals and many vegetables faster to adapt to root growth.
You can consider plastic containers (and carts to move them) for larger plants, such as trees, which need to be moved into garages or other sheltered places in winter in northern climates. A few large containers or many smaller containers, especially after absorbing heavy rain, may exert excessive pressure on the balcony, roof or deck area to keep it away from the pillars and pay attention to the heat. Dark containers burn the roots of plants in hot areas in the hot summer. Metal containers may also conduct too much heat, and are generally not able to withstand the corrosive effects of the salt in the fertilizer.

The scale of container vegetable gardening

Many beginning container gardeners make the mistake of placing the pot too low and losing it in a busy or conflicting context. You can change your level by placing some plants on a sturdy base, bench or staircase. It’s a better choice to hang the gondola at chest level so people can see them, or more than 6 feet high, without the danger of hitting them. The waist or lower plants should be on a winding path away from noisy pets and children. In fact, you may need to group and position the containers to facilitate watering.

Proper growth conditions of container vegetable gardening

In fact, if you provide proper growth conditions, any form of flowering or foliage plants and compact vegetables or edible herbs will feel at home in the container. First, there must be drainage. Most ready-made containers have one or more holes in the bottom to provide good drainage. If possible, you can drill holes in the container you made or found. There are ceramic pots or layered fragments of pebbles at the bottom, so the roots will not block the drainage holes.
You'd better use oil-free potting mixes instead of garden soil. These mixes are lighter, absorb more water, and drain better. Potting soil made mainly of peat moss and vermiculite is usually sold in small packages, which can become expensive if purchased on a large scale. The cheaper planter mix is made of compost material and peat moss, and should contain per-lite, sandy white material, which can promote rapid drainage. You can use the planter mix for containers larger than 6 or 8 inches in diameter.
About three weeks after placing the plants in the container, you should start using water-soluble fertilizers (15-30-15, that is, 15 parts nitrogen, 30 parts phosphorus, and 15 parts potassium), but only a quarter of the recommended amount. You'd better use this weakened solution every other watering.

Watering amount of container vegetable gardening

The amount of watering required depends on the climate, plant species, root size, and even container type. The heat of midsummer can quickly turn the highlights of the backyard into tiny desserts. In similar-sized plastic containers, you may need to water the plants in a porous clay container two to three times as often. In general, you'd better not let the soil become too dry or too wet.